Saturday, April 12, 2014

London: last week

Alright, this will be my last post for this trip besides probably a final, summarizing post after I get back home.
Yesterday, Alyssa and I caught an early bus over to Oxford and decided to spend the whole day exploring there. We started out at Oxford Castle and opted to do a tour there which was really interesting. After the tour had ended, we were allowed to roam around the castle some more and we decided to check out some of the prison cells (the Castle having served mainly as a prison for many years). As Alyssa poked her head into one of the dark cells, I grabbed her shoulder from behind and casually said, “boo!” – the scream she let out, I’m sure, scared the shit out of anyone else in the castle too. Particularly those just above hearing the ghost stories about the crypt. Naturally, it was hilarious. For me.
After the castle, we decided we would return later for a ghost tour of the town, but before then, we were free to wander around at our leisure. After checking to make sure we could catch a later bus (so we could stay for the ghost tour) we set off in the direction of the Eagle and Child pub. On the way there, we shopped and took our time wandering around. I got a toffee crepe and Alyssa ended up with the most interesting ice cream cone we have ever seen: because she ordered a double, she did not receive a cone with an especially large scoop of ice cream like most American places do, rather, the cone itself had two sort of cups on top, side by side in which each scoop was. We wandered through stores and marveled at street performers for a good long while before we ended up making it to the Eagle and Child pub. We did not eat there, but I got enough pictures of it so as to consider my mission complete; the particular interest for me being that it was the favorite meeting place of “The Inklings” (CS Lewis’ and Tolkien’s writing group which was also frequented by other famous authors).
We stopped by the Museum of Natural History and spent a while in there checking out the dinosaurs and interesting animals before heading back in the direction we came so we could find a place to eat lunch/early dinner. We got pastys and then went over to McDonalds to get some fries just as an excuse to have a place to sit. As we sat there at the counter in the window, we overheard some guys a few seats over talking; one was saying how after he bangs a girl, he inadvertently finds her disgusting afterwards and forgets her face, saying he couldn’t even tell ya what color her eyes were just because he can’t remember. Alyssa and I gave each other a look with raised eyebrows. They continued there conversation and eventually started talking about the museum that we had just come from to which Alyssa piped up and told them the closing time which they were wondering about. Her and I continued talking and we saying something about shopping when we realized their conversation was paralleling ours. She paused for a moment and whispered to me, “I think they heard me” to which there was a reply of “sorry.”  We laughed about it and Alyssa struck up a conversation with them after that. There were three of them but only one was especially chatty. He was the best looking but unfortunately had been the one we overheard saying those things in the beginning, so even though he was aesthetically pleasing to be sure, he had inadvertently kicked his own feet out from under himself.  But he was friendly and easy to talk to and we talked to the three of them for quite a long time. We asked questions about Britain and they asked about America (accents, words, politics, etc.), talked about sports, where we were all from, city preferences, and so on. Turns out the chatty one’s name was also Ashley, spelled the same way too. According to him, he was a “sort of model” but “didn’t like the word model” even though he’d been offered to be shot by Diesel before, he had turned them down – “no big deal.” Before we left, he added Alyssa on Facebook, and later on the bus home we looked at his profile – as expected, he was really quite full of himself, far more topless selfies than any guy should have. Despite that, they were fun to talk to if anything.
From there, we returned to the Castle and met up for the Ghost Tour. As we stood there waiting for the elderly guy in the top hat and coat to begin leading us around, we struck up a conversation with another girl in our group who was the same age as us and also America; Abby from Ohio who is also majoring in English.
The guide for the tour was really good and assumed the perfect story telling character voice for the entirety of the trip. It was more funny than scary, but there were some pretty good stories. On a few occasions he asked for volunteers so he could illustrate particular aspects of the tour; for instance, he was talking about how they used to identify witches and asked for a volunteer which Alyssa nominated me for. So the guy used my thumb to illustrate how a thumb screw used to work, a vice that would compress the tip of the thumb, increasing and increasing the pressure until…pop! At that instant, he pulled one of those little confetti launching firecrackers which he had hidden in his hand. Things like that, a later instance had him letting off a surprise sparkler which caused Alyssa to jump and scream as she was the volunteer in that instance, and later he had a few of the guys in the group pulling a Monty Python and galloping down an alleyway with coconuts to imitate the kind of sound that had been heard there of a ghost cavalry.
During the tour we had been chatting with Abbey and when it was over invited her to join us for a drink/dessert. So we all found a local pub that she had heard about; her and Alyssa had dessert and I settled with a cider. We all continued to talk for a while until it was time for Alyssa and I to head for the bus station and Abbey to make her way back to her hostel. On the way back I claimed two seats for myself and laid down in an effort to get some sleep on the way back, having only gotten three hours the night before and beginning to feel sick from the deprivation; probably the first time I’ve been able to fall asleep on a bus this whole trip.
And that was my last little adventure for my time here.
It’s strange that the semester is ending already – doesn’t feel like it should be. Far too soon. Well, my bank account would beg to differ, that’s for sure, but for me personally I wish it was longer. I am not ready to go back.
Those in the Health Services program have already left because at the end of their semester is a week in Jamaica that is part of their particular program, so I had to say goodbye to Tula earlier this week and that was really sad. It’s hard to make friends in places like this and then realize that you’ll barely get to see them anymore because they live all the way across the country….

Today I meant to study. I should have. But I was still out of whack from lack of sleep so not long after I woke up this morning, I found myself again in bed for a nap. You know, there is a reason I don’t sleep and this is it: while napping today I dreamt that I was holding my dying mother in my arms, talking and half singing to her trying to comfort either her or myself, I don’t know which. When I looked down her head hung limply over my arm with eyes shut and mouth hung open. In horror, I released my grip and simultaneously stood up from the edge of the bed on which I had been sitting and backed away. Her limp body then slipped from the bed and slumped to the floor without my support and her head bashed the ground with a sickening thump. You can imagine the state I woke up in.  Especially because I still haven’t recovered from the other nightmare I had earlier this week.
It’s no wonder I don’t sleep.
I’d rather drive myself mad from sleep deprivation than live those hells over and over again anytime I shut my eyes.
So I was rather messed up for the rest of the day and spent most of it just hanging out and watching TV to get my mind off it. In my defense I didn’t know what the movie was about when I started it, but I watched Requiem for a Dream which was probably NOT the most helpful movie for my mood. But it was a really, really good movie and I am glad I watched it finally as I have heard of it many times and meant to get around to watching it. Probably one of the most intense but also most beautifully done films I’ve watched in a long time. It may be because I just watched it, but at the moment, I would put it toward the very top of my favorite movies list – perhaps just below Donnie Darko which takes #1 for me. We’ll see how I feel about that after a while, but I really did like it a lot.

Truth be told, it really wasn’t the best movie to watch on this particularly day as I found myself emotionally hollowed out afterward and entirely unable to even hope of studying. It’s taken me ridiculously long to even type this. Tomorrow though Alyssa and I are going to go watch the changing of the guard and then head to Hyde Park to go spend some time studying in the sunshine. And with any luck, my subconscious will show me some mercy tonight…

Monday, April 7, 2014

London: the final weeks

Hey there!
So, I think this may be one of my final posts.
This week is my last week of classes and the following is finals week. So much of my time is going to be spent studying, packing, and preparing for the end of the semester. I will do a final, summarizing post upon my return to the US to address the trip as a whole, but until them, I am going to be phasing these posts out and shifting my attention to my other blog, registration, completing the semester, and the things I need to be looking forward to in the Summer such as employment and possible internships.
On a whole, I think I have done well to keep you all as updated as I possibly could and it has helped me to be able to write about this experience for the sake of my memory, a means of processing, as well as to simply get me in the habit of writing every day without exception. It has been valuable to me, and I hope that it was for you also.
My mother and sister recently left after having spent a week visiting me. In general, we spent a lot of time covering the main sights and introducing them to quintessential London. However, there were a few firsts for me as well; on Friday we went to Stonehenge and that was really interesting. We did not get very long to look around, but it was worth it just to say that I have been to Stonehenge now. Additionally, the day before, we went on a tour of Westminster Abbey which was really quite incredible. Some of the graves within included that of Charles Darwin, many of the Monarchs, and the Poet’s Corner which I found to be the most powerful site in the Abbey. Some 50 writers and poets are buried or commemorated there; at least half of whom I have read. Chaucer, Charles Dickens, Robert Browning, Thomas Hardy, Handel, Henry Irving, Rudyard Kipling, James Macpherson, John Masefield, Edmund Spenser, to name a few of the names buried there. Other authors and artists are also simply commemorated there with plaques even though they are not actually buried within the Abbey; Shakespeare, Jane Austen, William Blake, the Bronte sisters, Elizabeth Browning, Robert Burns, George Gordon Byron, Lewis Carroll, TS Eliot, Gerard Manley Hopkins, Henry James, John Keats, CS Lewis, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Christopher Marlowe, John Milton, Walter Scott, Anthony Trollope, William Wordsworth, Oscar Wilde, again, to list some select names that appeared but not all of them. You can imagine the little heart palpitations I was getting…

Anyway, this coming Friday Alyssa and I are planning on one last excursion to Oxford. But other than that, the remaining time I have will be spent here in London. Frankly, I don’t want to leave. I do not look forward to returning to the boredom of North Idaho after such an adventure as this. It’s sad, but true. More than ever I have realized just how much I love the city and it is going to be hard to return to such a stark contrast when I go back. As a result, my summer will be devoted wholeheartedly to work and my writing as a means of keeping myself entertained. This experience has been unforgettable, and I can only hope of returning one day. It has been a blessing, truly, to be able to spend so long a time in London and get to know the city so thoroughly. Certainly, it will have an effect on my education, writing, and self – I do not yet know to what extent this experience will shape me, but I am curious to find out. 
Thank you for reading!

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Hamlet: Language and Rhetoric

The Rest is Silence
Like the foundation of a building, Shakespeare’s ingenious thematics and philosophy which exposes the raw nerve of human behavior would not be possible if his command of language was not immaculate. It is generally concluded that Hamlet is the apex of his mastery. Through Shakespeare’s use of doubled structures; paralleled and juxtaposed, rhetoric devices, generalizations to make specific points, and a carefully selected vocabulary he is able to exact the emotional core of the play. It is this core which has held a mirror to the face of the individual in society and held them captivated for centuries, feeling the brink somewhere between complete understanding and the knowledge of utter ignorance. The following will examine Shakespeare’s particular usage of language which has constructed one of the greatest literary and dramatic works of this age.
 Within the reading of Hamlet, but also more particularly in its performance, one quickly notices the prevalence of repetitious phrases or words but also various other forms of doubled characterizations, and themes, and within that, the presence of various parallels and juxtapositions. Even the rhetoric of the play is highly invested in doubles. “The language of Hamlet…is dominated to an extent without parallel in the canon by one particular rhetorical device: it is obsessed with doubles of all kinds, and notably by its use of the figure known as hendiadys.” Hendiadys is a Latin term derived from the Greek hen dia dyion which literally translates as “one-through-two.” It is a device of rhetoric that describes “the expression of an idea by the use of usually two independent words connected by and instead of the usual combination of independent word and its modifier” (Merriam-Webster). For example, the usage of the phrase “good and mad” instead of “very mad”. Within the text of Hamlet, doublings of many sorts are frequent, “but those which exhibit hendiadys are marked by identifiable tension or strain, as if the parts were related in some not perfectly evident way” (Kermode 100-101). Shakespeare seemed to show a particular interest in this device most especially in Hamlet as it occurs more than sixty times throughout (Nordquist).
The rhetorical device of hendiadys is, “familiar from the English liturgy, and its remote origin is probably in the parallelisms found in the Psalms” (Kermode 101). So it is possible that there is a correlation between the religious origin of the language devices and the deeply moral, ethical and theologically pertinent questions that arise during the play’s course. According to Kermode, “Anyone who has known the Book of Common Prayer is familiar with such language: ‘We acknowledge and confess our manifold sins and wickednesses,’ or ‘Spare thou them, O God, which confess their faults, restore thou them that are penitent’“ (101). The fact that many of these devices within Hamlet come across as being “marked by identifiable tension or strain” (100), as previously described, represents syntactically the major themes of the play which are also strained, tense, and conflicting.
Throughout the play, it is shown that doubling is not only evident within the rhetoric, but also goes so far as to be a notable characteristic of most of the play’s key individuals. Polonius seems rather fond of both hendiadys and doubles and instances like that which follows are not uncommon in his speech: “Why day is day, night is night, and time is time,/ Were nothing but to waste night, day, and time…” (II.ii.88-89). As Laertes makes point of, doubling is a defining characteristic of Polonius. He points this out when he speaks of Polonius’ double blessing. However, funnily enough, in speaking of Polonius’ doubling, Laertes himself exposes the same tendency in himself by using the sentence, “A double blessing is a double grace” (I.iii.53) – “a line which doubles ‘double’” (Kermode 102). In the larger scope of the play, “The role of revenger is doubled by Laertes and by Fortinbras, and the chronographies of the opening scene (Barnardo’s and Horatio’s) form brackets for the whole of it” (Kermode 102). It is also safe to say that Claudius himself is characterized by duplicity. More than once he is described as a “serpent” which is reminiscent of the serpent in Genesis that tempted Eve by means of lies and deceit (Claudius killed elder Hamlet with poison in his ears, emulating poisonous speech, perhaps like that which convinced Eve to taste the forbidden fruit); general two-facedness. Not only is this another variation on the theme of doubles, but it also recalls the religious themes of the play.
In fact, it is the very emotional core of the play which is revealed by the usage of doubling. Claudius’ first words to Hamlet contains a double that points at the unpleasant reality of his and Hamlet’s familial relation; he opens, “the conversation with a sinister doublet: ‘But now, my cousin Hamlet, and my son,’ a remark that sums up in advance the evil doubling that is at the heart of the play” (Kermode 103). But, Shakespeare immediately presents Hamlet’s pointed and clever wit with the very first words he utters. Hamlet meets Claudius’ doublet with one of his own, “to which Hamlet, in his first line, replies with another punning doublet: ‘A little more than kin, and less than kind’ (64-65)” (Kermode 103). The doubling within these lines presents the crux of the play and contains the emotional core which defines the rest of its plot. Another dialogue within the play, this time between Hamlet and his mother, also uses doubles to peel back the meat of the plot and reveal the emotional core underneath:
                Queen: Hamlet, you hast thy father much offended.
                Hamlet: Mother, you have my father much offended.
                Queen: Come, come, you answer with an idle tongue.
                Hamlet: Go, go, you question with a wicked tongue.
(III.iv.9-12)
“The exchange between Hamlet and his mother at the outset remembers the old device of stichomythia and establishes at once the fury in their words, a fury that has to do with painful doublings” (Kermode 121). There is a juxtaposition in the meaning of the word “father” between Hamlet and his mother. The larger theme of juxtaposition within the play will be touched upon a bit later, but in this instance, because of that difference in connotation, “In these lines each character means something different by the word ‘father,’ and the difference is the emotional core of the tragedy” (Kermode 121).
Hamlet, as a character, has a habit of repetition in his speech; some instances on which this characteristic is shown appear when he replies to Ophelia’s greeting with, “I humbly thank you, well, well, well,” (III.i.92). He also responds to Polonius’ inquiry about the matter of his reading with, “Words, words, words,” (II.ii.191) and again later to Polonius’ departure with, “You cannot, sir, take from me anything that I will more willingly part withal - Except my life, except my life, except my life,” (II.ii.216). The instances previously mentioned are the times in which Hamlet specifically uses triplets in his speech, a characteristic seen also in his father. In his first appearance, the elder Hamlet describes his death as, “O, horrible! O, horrible! Most horrible!” (I.v.80) and begs Hamlet to, “List, list, O, list!” (I.v.22). Even Elder Hamlet’s parting words to his son contain a triple farewell, “Adieu, adieu, adieu! Remember me” (I.v.91). Within the same scene, there is also a rather fascinating instance of a shared triplet between Hamlet and his father. The ghost tells Hamlet, “Revenge his foul and most unnatural murder” (I.v.25) to which Hamlet replies with the single word of, “Murder!” (I.v.26) that the ghost affirms with, “Murder most foul…” (I.v.27). The result is a trifold, consecutive repetition of the word “murder” which is uttered between two people; father and son. Even though there are a few very small instances in which other characters use triplets, Horatio bids the ghost to “Speak, speak! I charge thee, speak!” (I.i.51) and at the end of the play-within-the-play Polonius commands, “Lights, lights, lights!” (III.ii.64), these come across as random happenings whereas with Hamlet and his father, it would seem more deliberate due to the fact that the triples occurs far more consistently in their speech than anyone else’s. Of course, Hamlet does not strictly use triplets however, and frequently recalls the theme of doubles within his speech and rhetoric, doubling phrases and using hendiadys just as much as any other character, but it is the triplet repetition which seem rather unique to him and is thus worth pointing out.
It is thought that the aforementioned doubling and perhaps repetition as well throughout the play may be, “A means of slowing down the action as well as the language of the play, while all, paradoxically, remains, as it were, seething with sense and menace” (Kermode 102). It is not only through doubling though that Shakespeare creates a delay within the play. He ever so easily could have cut out a tremendous portion of the play by beginning with Hamlet’s own encounter with his father’s ghost rather than Horatio’s, but he uncharacteristically postpones the introduction of the play’s plot until the very end of the first act, several scenes removed from its opening. Additionally, there are instances in which characters’ speech is rendered irrelevant within a very short time of its utterance. In the very beginning of the play, Barnardo’s “chronography is redundant,” because “the report on how the Ghost appeared ‘Last night of all’ (I.i.36); is nullified by its irruption into the present moment” (Kermode 98). Within a very short space of time, “Barnardo’s speech, its beginning so carefully presented, is abruptly rendered useless as far as narrative is concerned… The tension, so elaborately established, is slackened, and the talk takes a different turn” (Kermode 98). But this does not only occur once. Within the very same act, this time Horatio’s speech is interrupted. “Once again, the speech is brought to an end by the arrival of the Ghost, now interrogated formally by Horatio, but again leaving without answer as the cock crows. Once more we have this tantalizing false start” (Kermode 99).
Eventually, the course of the play finally culminates in the fencing match and the last thing Hamlet says before its start is as follows: “Not a whit, we defy augury: there is a special providence in the fall of a sparrow. If it be now, ‘tis not to come; if it be not to come, it will be now; if it be not now, yet it will come – the readiness is all. Since no man owes of aught he leaves, what is’t to leave betimes? Let be” (V.ii.211-216). The jagged timeline of the play seems to be representing the unpredictability of time, and most especially the inescapability of its ultimate end in death. In that vein, there is no surprise, thus “we defy augury” (V.ii.211) and dismiss omen or superstition because it is no great feat to predict something which is already a certainty. No matter how many false starts, delay, or sudden, unforeseen circumstance occur, it does not matter if one maintains a constant readiness; which Hamlet has done throughout. It is also possible that by ending simply with “Let be” (V.ii.216) he is not only halting Horatio’s action, but is also, simultaneously and subconsciously answering his previously posed question of “to be, or not to be” (III.i.56). “The wisdom here seems close to Epicurus: when death is, I am not; when I am, death is not; therefore why worry?” (Critchley and Webster). This may seem especially true after reading Hamlet’s last dialogue with Horatio, in which he tells Horatio, “Had I but time, as this fell sergeant Death is strict in his arrest, O, I could tell you – But let it be” (V.ii.328-330). Shortly after the repetition of “let be” he then must convince Horatio to “Let go” (V.ii.335) when Horatio is considering the hastening of his own death by finishing off the remaining poisoned drink. 
“From the comment that heavy drinking was the custom in Denmark but that it would be more honorable to give it up than to follow it, Hamlet, in what we recognize as his usual way, generalizes the point, arguing that a single fault (such as drunkenness) can blast the reputation of persons who in all other respects deserve better” (Kermode 107). A common feature of Hamlet’s character, much like his use of repetition, is that he consistently calls question to anything that is accepted as custom, it is through the examination of these generalizations that Hamlet is able to comment on something more specific, in fact, “he may be thought to have himself in mind, not as a drunkard of course, but perhaps as a melancholic. He is saying something obliquely about himself in the context of a generalization about human character” (Kermode 107). Shakespeare not only shows Hamlet’s generalizations in the words Hamlet speaks, he changes the very character of Hamlet’s speech to illustrate his shift in focus. “Note that Ophelia and Hamlet address each other as ‘you’ and not ‘thou,’ as might be expected between lovers, until Hamlet says ‘Get thee to a Nunnery.’ He continues with ‘thou’ and ‘thee’ until he shifts the attack to women in general: ‘I have heard of your paintings, too’ (143)” (Kermode footnote 115). By generalizing women, Hamlet conveys his disillusionment with the women in his life, who, like so many others, have hurt and lied to him. To him, they are just as shallow, just as “painted” and false as any of his friends (save Horatio) and his murdering uncle. It is only by placing himself in direct contrast to custom and by commenting on general human character that Hamlet is able to understand, explain, and reason what is going on inside his head in the turmoil of thought that plagues him.
In both of the previous examples, it is evident that Hamlet’s usage of generalization is very closely link with the way he uses particular words or rhetorical devices. As mentioned previously, Hamlet shows a particular attention to “custom” and is very active in the way he confronts and questions it. As Hamlet points out, “That monster custom, who all sense doth eat” (IV.i.161) creates a rather convenient safety net for people, but which also has the power to lead common sense astray if allowed to become unspoken law. Thus, anytime that particular words appears, it is being used in the context of inquiry and analysis, usually showing a generalization of Hamlet’s society or human nature which Hamlet then turns around and uses to expose something specific about himself or others. There is only one occasion when Hamlet accepts custom as valuable, and that is when he realizes that habit bred by custom is what will help his mother abstain from his uncle’s bed and thus separate her from her sins (IV.i.160-170). But on any other occasion, Hamlet is generally critical of “custom.” Like this, there are other trigger-words that Shakespeare uses throughout the play to make some of his greater points. His word choice is extraordinarily focused and extremely intentional in its purpose. Like the usage of the word “custom,” the word “’consequence’ occurs four times in Hamlet, three times in II.i., when Polonius forgets what he is talking about and Reynaldo has to remind him (45, 51, 52)… An important theme in Hamlet is memory, and memory can be represented as a form, perhaps fading, created by the pressure of a past emotion” (Kermode 118). When Shakespeare is not using these particular trigger-words, it is likely that specific imagery within the play is being used for a very similar purpose.
The specific imagery that Hamlet uses in his speech ends up being just as pointed as his word choice. Closely linked to Hamlet’s purpose is the question of virtue and vice, thus, his language is highly preoccupied by religious imagery specifically centered on heaven, hell, and providence. The allusions that Hamlet draws drive at his biggest moral dilemma; essentially the question of right and wrong. What is right by God, by his father, and by his own morality are questions that lie deep within Hamlet’s psyche, and what causes offence to the memory of his father, or mars his soul with sin that drives him from his God and endangers the state of his eternity. When Hamlet kills Polonius, it seems as though he decides then that sometimes to be moral, one must act immorally, or in other words, “Virtue itself of vice must pardon beg” (III.iv.154). Hamlet addresses this reality in himself when he calls himself both “scourge and minister” of Heaven. Even though the terms contrast in meaning, there is no way for Hamlet to be one without also being the other. This reality of Hamlet’s translates itself in different ways within his vocabulary and he frequently uses images of health, disease, poison (specifically the kind used on his father), sanity, insanity, death, decay and burial. Through this type of searching imagery that he uses while trying to determine the course of moral action, his tormented state of mind is simultaneously revealed. Part of Hamlet’s speech displays within it distinct contrasts and juxtapositions. There are instances in which he takes images of beauty, grace and innocence and casts them in direct contact with other images of blisters, hypocrisy, and falsehood (III.iv.41-45). In this particular moment, Hamlet is accusing his mother of incest and betraying his father by marrying his uncle, thus, in both speech and in deed, he is using the double structure to reveal a truth; a technique that both Shakespeare and Hamlet do consciously throughout the play and use frequently.
In a different kind of double, the theme of parallelism runs throughout the play; not only do actions parallel one another, but they are also used by the characters to test truth, and foils between characters offer further insight into each character respectively. In one instance, Hamlet mimics his father’s actions; “The apparition of Hamlet in Ophelia’s chamber… is itself a doublet of his father’s ghostly appearance, ‘As if he had been loosed out of hell/ To speak of horrors’ (II.i.80-81)” (Kermode 110). Hamlet also uses parallelism to expose a truth that he needs confirmation of. Hamlet’s “purpose of the play-within-the-play is double: to test the Ghost and to test Claudius” (Kermode 115), not to mention its obvious allusion to the murder of elder Hamlet. By forcing his mother to look at pictures of both her husbands side by side, Hamlet shows that he is highly aware of the parallels between the two brothers and he consciously uses that parallelism to show his mother the nature of her fault and of his grief. The soliloquy in which he essentially declares war upon Claudius establishes the expectation of an imminent battle. This is paralleled by the presence of Fortinbras’ troops which are closing in on Denmark that Hamlet has just previously commented on. At this point in the play, war is coming; both for external and internal reasons. Thus the question becomes relevant again; “Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer/The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,/ Or to take arms against a sea of troubles,/ And by opposing end them?” (III.i.57-60). Seeing as how Hamlet’s internalized war which he declares against Claudius is the one which actually comes to pass and results in the enemy being defeated and the hero prevailing even in death, it is no wonder that Hamlet is given a soldier’s funeral.
In Hamlet there are three characters which all foil one another perfectly; Fortinbras, Hamlet, and Laertes.  Fortinbras and Laertes foil one another in their tendency toward fast and potentially rash action. Fortinbras gathers an army to reclaim land that would do little to benefit his kingdom, but the real reason behind it is his desire to avenge his father’s death. Laertes too summons a large mob to overthrow the king as retribution for his own father’s death. Both of these men use the power of a gathered force as the weapon by which they seek to exact their revenge. Hamlet, on the other hand, acts alone and intentionally distances himself from large assembly. Hamlet and Fortinbras both have a valid claim to their respective thrones through blood while Laertes attempts to seize it by force. In that vein, Hamlet and Fortinbras were both the son of warrior king fathers who met one another honorably in battle, however, Laertes’ father was an advisor to the king and was killed unjustly with no means to protect himself. However, unlike Old Fortinbras’ who was killed in battle, face to face with his foes, Old Hamlet died in a fashion more similar to Polonius; unjustified and unarmed.
This parallelism does not always lend itself to be a perfect mirror image, however. At other times, there are themes, actions, or speeches which distinctly contrast one another and sit very close to one another in juxtaposition. Hamlet’s “succession of oppositional terms:  ‘spirit of health, or goblin damn’d,’ ‘airs from heaven, or blasts from hell,’ ‘intents wicked, or charitable,’ ‘ponderous and marble jaws’ (40-50 [Q2], 19-29 [F])” (Kermode 108) when he addresses the ghost of his father is one of the clearest examples of juxtaposed phrases within a character’s speech. But juxtaposition also occurs within some of the play’s greater themes. The ever present juxtaposition between truth and lies is present in Hamlet as it is in many other works of literature. Within the context of duplicity in the text, there are many times during which characters use falsity to uncover and cover truth. Most especially Hamlet himself uses “his own indirections to find directions out” (Kermode 111) by pretending to be insane and thus lead Polonius and Claudius’ suspicions astray. This contrast between truth and lies results in a contrast between honest and performed actions. The means by which Hamlet uses indirection is to act as though he were insane, but in reality, he is not. But Ophelia does go insane, causing true madness and acted madness to be shown together with one another – thus, the question of sanity and madness similarly sit side by side within the partner question of truth falsity. In another instance, Hamlet states that he, “will speak daggers to her, but use none” (III.ii) and yet, when he does hear a noise from behind the curtain in his mother’s closet, the first thing he does is whip out his sword and stab the unseen intruder who turns out to be Polonius. In this case, the juxtaposition is between a character’s speech and his actions, which directly contradict one another despite their close proximity in the text.

All throughout the play, Shakespeare proves again and again that his mastery of the English language is unsurpassable. His tendency toward doubles within this particular play weaves in and out of juxtapositions, parallels, foils, and hendiadys, combined with generalizations, words and imagery form the emotional core of the play which then spirals together with the greater themes, philosophical, sociological, and psychological elements to create what is considered to be one of, if not the, best works of drama and literature in the English language. Even without delving into the existentialism that the play toys around with thematically, the language itself is enough to unveil the genius of Shakespeare’s work; because without the language itself, the rest is silence.




Works Cited

Critchley, Simon and Jamieson Webster. The New York Times: Opinion Pages. “Let Be: An Answer to Hamlet’s Question.” July 9, 2011. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/07/09/let-be-an-answer-to-hamlets-question/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0

Merriam-Webster, Incorporated. Hendiadys. 2014. http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/hendiadys

Nordquist, Richard. Grammar and Composition. “Hendiadys” 2014. http://grammar.about.com/od/fh/g/hendiadysterm.htm

Shakespeare, William. “Hamlet.” The Alexander Text of the Complete Works of William Shakespeare. London: Harper Collins, 1951. Pages 1081-1125. Print.

Monday, March 31, 2014

London: day eighty-two, eighty-three, and eighty-four

Saturday morning I found myself at St. Pancras waiting for my mom and sister to arrive. Time was dragging on and I was beginning to wonder whether or not they had gotten on the right train. I wandered back and forth for a while and eventually sat myself down on the stairs. I hadn’t gotten any sleep at all the night before because my insomnia was especially bad that night and caused me to pull an all-nighter and I was becoming a little anxious about where mom and Haley were. I had not been sitting there for long when a guy (black guy, seemed at least several years older than me, but not middle aged) who was walking by stopped on his way up the stairs and leaned on the middle railing to ask me if I was alright. I told him yeah, just waiting but he didn’t go away, instead, he struck up a conversation with me.  I can’t remember his name, but he said he was from Angola. We talked for a while just casually, he was waiting around also before he needed to go take some sort of qualification test for his job. Friendly, and interesting but again, not my type and also the fact that I am just not looking for anything right now. Still too raw and I am in no shape for another go. So when he asked me for my number, I simply told him that I was already in a relationship (just the easiest thing that came to mind) and he seemed fairly understanding.
I waited a bit longer before deciding to head back to NIDO to wait. I was there, practicing guitar when I got a text from a payphone telling me that mom and Haley were here, so I ran back down to St. Pancras and found them there. I got them to their hotel before we set off on a tour of London. First, we took the Tube down to Tower Hill, we then did a LONG walk from the Tower of London, across Tower Bridge, through Borough Market, past the Globe and the Tate, across Millennium Bridge, and eventually stopping at St. Paul’s. We then took the Tube from there to Westminster where we walked by Big Ben and Parliament, across Lambeth Bridge to the Southbank near the London Eye and crossed back over on the bridge directly underneath Big Ben. We then found a pub to eat at and mom and Haley got to have their first meal at a pub as well as see all the major sights. When it got dark that night, we went on another walk from King’s Cross to IES so that I could show them where I go to class, we passed the British Museum and then caught a bus back from Tottenham.
Yesterday, we went to Camden Market and spent the vast majority of the day there. As always, I could not leave without buying something and ended up with a pretty ring with a large red rhinestone and a bracelet with an Iron Cross on it that mom bought me. We tried the food and explored for several hours before deciding to head toward Soho. However, when we were trying to find the bus stop something really rather strange happened. We were on the next street over from Camden High Street because we needed a bus going the opposite way and Camden is a one way (also the Tube Station was closed). As we were standing at the bus stop reading the route information I heard mom exclaim, “what’s your problem dude!?” and turned around to see a middle sized and rather normally dressed black guy standing right behind us staring hard at her as though offended. She had exclaimed at him because apparently she had turned around to see him standing right behind her with a fist raised in the air as though he were going to punch her. When she turned to look at him, he did a medium speed punching motion toward her face that he pulled back before actually touching her. Mom’s exclamation was what caused Haley and I to turn around and he just stared at her for a few moments, during which time I was doing a scan of his hands to make sure he didn’t have a knife or something and also wondering what to do if he made a move toward mom. But then he turned around and walked away without a word. It was REALLY strange and we suspected that he may not have been completely mentally well, because there was no reason whatsoever and no sense in his actions.
From Camden, we made our way to Soho and I gave mom and Haley the same tour that my British Youth Culture professor took us on and which I later took Hannah on sometime back, and showed them all the history of the area. We did not get as far as Abbey Road. But this morning, mom and Haley went there while I was in class (apparently mom did not know what Abbey Road was however and needed some explaining after enduring Haley and my laughter).

After class, I met them at Holborn Station, we got lunch and then took the Tube to St. Paul’s. The next few hours were spent inside St. Paul’s Cathedral (the third time for me). After St. Paul’s we consulted the map in mom’s guide book that she had to figure out how to get to Brick Lane. I had not taken the Tube to Brick Lane before (always having taken the bus from NIDO before), and was slightly confused by its suggestion to get off at Aldgate East rather than Shoreditch. But trusting the book, that was where we went. As it would have it, the map then did not show the way to get to Brick Lane from there and cut off the area where we were. There were also no maps on the street, as our luck would have it. So we explored down one way because I thought I could see it from a distance. But apparently we were terribly wrong and ended up walking and walking and walking looking for a bus stop to get us back in familiar territory. The neighborhood started to turn a little less than desirable which I was by no means pleased with because I didn’t know the area nor how to get out of it and after guys in two passing cars shouted “compliments” at us, I was rather done. Finally we found a bus that would return us to downtown and it was then that we realized just how far we had gone, apparently the entirely wrong direction as we had somehow managed to come close to Wapping which is on the way toward Greenwich. Back in familiar territory once again near St. Paul’s, that was where we got dinner at a pub and then decided to call it an early night on account of sore feet.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

London: day seventy-nine, eighty, and eighty-one

Hey everyone,
So I’ve gotten behind again. It’s alright though because the past few days have largely consisted of essay writing and trying to get homework done before mom and Haley get here. I’ve also just been wrapped up in some other writing right now.
Yesterday though, I went with Tula and her friend Alex to Camden Market and we spent the whole day walking around looking at everything, trying the different foods, and shopping. I ended up getting two tank tops; a white one with the Converse logo on it and a black version of the Jack Daniels logo. Before I left though, the vendor decided to strike a bargain with me and wanted to throw in a sweater that I’d previously been looking at that had the Hard Rock Café logo on it, for a discounted price. So I caved. It’s alright though, the thing that I love about Camden is just how cheap everything is, not to mention that it is EXACTLY my kind of punk style. We walked til our feet started to get sore, and even then we didn’t get through the entire market. I plan to bring my mom and sister there during their stay, even though that will be the fourth time for me, but it might be one of my favorite places in London so I will take every opportunity I can to go back.
After that, Tula and I decided to go to Primark because she needed some business casual clothes. As it would turn out, I ended up finding more clothes there that I liked too, and also for dirt cheap; a nice, black button up vest, a plain gray t-shirt, and some knock off black converse shoes to replace my boots which I have had to continually glue the soles back onto.

That evening I went back and relaxed mostly, and practiced a new song on my guitar that I’ve been working on; “It’s Been A While” by the band Stained. So far, so good, it’s a very repetitive song, just a matter of nailing down the main riff, then I’ll essentially know the whole thing.

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

London: seventy-eight

Hey hey!
So class today was pretty interesting; in British Youth Culture we talked about the beginnings of EDM, Techno and Dubstep – so that was cool. Also made some connections with my own music, so be sure to check out my upcoming post in “Stairway to Nirvana” if you’re curious to see how the Rock world is adopting and adapting some of this new electronic music. I will post it to Facebook as soon as I get it completed, so stay tuned...
Anyway, went back to NIDO and looked up some concerts online and I found out that one of my favorite bands, Seether, is going to be playing at the Spokane County Fairgrounds on September 12th! Thinking that I am going to have to play hooky for half a day and drive back to Idaho to go to it, then just spend the night at one of my parents’ houses before heading back to school. Learned my lesson with Three Days Grace, that if I wait too long to go see my favorite bands then it might never happen, so I want to go if at all possible.
Went to my City class like usual and sat through another headache inducing lecture. Seriously, I don’t do biology and it’s really rather difficult to remember everything, plus I am quickly getting stressed about the final exam which is worth 80 percent of our grade. Anyway, during the break, the guy next to me started talking to me and said that he thought I had very nice handwriting. We chatted for a bit and I found out that he is also an international student from Tel Aviv who is at City full time studying psychology. He was really friendly, and not bad looking but not quite my type. Even still, it was nice to actually talk to someone in that class because there really is little room for social interaction in a class so big that is so lecture based, and I haven’t met anyone from City yet. So that was cool. Went to the grocery store and then headed back to NIDO. Fairly mellow day. But I am going to buckle down this evening and get as much homework finished as humanly possible so that I will not have to worry about it this weekend – hence the short post.

Cheers!

Monday, March 24, 2014

London: day seventy-five, seventy-six, seventy-seven

Hey guys!
So on Saturday we had the IES overnight trip to York. I didn’t have internet the whole time so that is why I am writing now; also, we were just really busy.
In the morning, Peipei (my roommate) and I were getting ready to go, and she mentioned that she didn’t have any friends at all who were going on the trip so I invited her to hang out with Hannah and me for the weekend. We talked more this past weekend than we had the entire time we had been roomates – not even joking. I feel like, when we’re in the dorm, it’s often the space for us to relax after a long day of school and sight-seeing, also just to do homework and, for me, write; so we don’t exactly regard it as a social space and both of us have been fine with that. Hannah laughed at me a bit this weekend though because it kind of turned into the first time I’d really gotten to know Peipei. We all got along well though and had a lot of fun.
The train took us two hours north through the classic English countryside, dotted with cottages and farms and white sheep speckling the green hillsides – absolutely picture perfect. I couldn’t help thinking that these are the hills, the forests, the streams, the farms that inspired a thousand poems, novels, and paintings. Straight from a fairytale. The reality of it hit me a little, I suppose, that I was looking at the same landscape that inspired some of the greatest minds. It was real, and I was seeing it firsthand, not through the eyes of another. I am here too.
We pulled into York at about 10:30, dropped our stuff off at the hostel and then immediately went back into town for a guided tour of the city. The tour was interesting but being so close to lunch it was rather difficult to pay attention at times because of my growling stomach. I really enjoyed the walk though, even if I didn’t retain everything the guide was saying, it was absolutely worth it to enjoy the sunny walk along the riverside, near the Abbey, along the top of the old city wall, through the narrow streets of the old town itself, and eventually ending at the Cathedral.
We were then freed up to go find lunch which we ended up getting at a bakery that had some really good lunch pastys and bakes. We then sat in one of the town courtyards eating and watching an interesting street performer/escape artist. Peipei didn’t want to watch his final act so she eventually wandered off and told us she’d meet up with us again shortly. Hannah and I watched he guy perform despite the rain that began pelting us halfway through. We then moved on and took some refuge in various shops from the increasingly grey sky until it was time to meet back up with the group at the Cathedral.
The group was then allowed to explore the Cathedral and then do whatever until meeting up again for dinner. The Cathedral was stunning; they all are. And we got to hear the organ play as well as the boys choir sing the Evensong which was, as always, hauntingly beautiful. Peipei, Hannah and I then walked around the town, going into various stores just as a means to escape the cold and rain. We eventually ended up at a Pret where we warmed up with hot chocolate before once again meeting up with the IES group and walked to an Indian restaurant where IES bought us dinner. The food was really good and that was the main time when Peipei and I talked the most. She told me about some of the biggest culture differences between China and the US and described how Chinese kids just don’t get nearly as much control over their own lives as Americans do. She said that even though she wanted to do Public Relations, it was decided by her parents that she would study Finance; an inarguable decision for her as it would be entirely disrespectful to stand up to her parents – something she has never done. She also told me about one of her friends who wants to be a journalist, but who can’t be because her parents decided that she will go into the corporate world, her mother being the executive of a large company. Conversation between the three of us turned around guys, tattoos, and future plans. She asked about my tattoo and laughed when I asked her if she’d ever get one, telling me that if she did her parents had promised that they’d dig it out of her skin. But it fits more I suppose, because she said that tattoos are looked on quite poorly in China, indicating a kid whose parents did not raise them right. I suppose some in the States feel that way also, but I think the public opinion is currently shifting on that toward the understanding that tattoos can be art and can be tastefully and beautifully done. After dinner, we were taken back to the hostel (anytime we went to the hostel we had to take taxis because it was some distance from the city center) and even though it was fairly early in the night, we all turned in.
The next morning, we had breakfast and got on the bus which took us an hour and a half across the moors and countryside to the seaside town of Whitby. On the way, we stopped briefly along the road for some pictures of a beautiful hollow/ravine. It is amazing how you can be driving through some of the greenest, most picturesque land you’ve ever seen, and then all of a sudden, the green just disappears entirely and now the land is brown and treeless for miles; arid ground where nothing grows. The moors are beautiful in their own right, but they certainly constitute a drastic contrast which makes the green countryside all the more splendid in its beauty.
We arrived in Whitby and were turned lose to explore the town. Hannah, Peipei and I started by hiking the hill up to the Abbey on top of a hill which overlooked the town, the beach and the ocean. There we walked along a small path that followed the cliff-side over the ocean and which had an old graveyard to the other side of it that overlooked the ocean; a little path between two eternities. The blonde sea-grass covered the hillside and blew in the breeze. Occasionally, there was a patch of daffodils which grew wild at the base of one or two of the now unreadable headstones as though they had, of their own will, chosen the grave of a favored person. I could not help but think that there is no better place to be buried than on a cliff overlooking the sea. So many people want to be cremated, and I have heard it tossed out as the favored option many times as though it were in fashion and was supposed to be easier in some way. But if there is a place so pretty as this spot on the sea, then I should think that I would like to be buried.
Anyway, we then went over to the ruins of the old Abbey and did our best to get pictures of it without having to pay to go inside the wall. We found a spot around the corner where the wall was low enough for one to lift their camera over the top and thus take pictures that way. Even though all I could see was the stone in front of my face, my camera could see the Abbey and I was able to get some good pictures that way. We then made our way down and walked through the town, crossed the bridge again and walked through the other half of the town, eventually ending up at the end of the pier. We retraced our steps a little, and wandered through a small museum dedicated to lifeboats before finding a place to get fish and chips. We sat on a stone wall along the water and watched the flocks of seagulls daringly seize any opportunity to snatch a French fry or bit of fish from any unsuspecting person. They would also try to be annoying as possible just so that people would through them food as the only way to get them to shut up. As we sat there, an older couple eventually sat down to our left. Out of the corner of my eye, I could see the guy looking at me occasionally and after a few times I turned to meet his gaze. They were the very image of a couple living in the English countryside, they probably had a farm and a cottage, a field of sheep and a dog to round them all up – the whole nine yards.  The guy, who was about seventy or so is my guess, smiled and leaned over, pointing at my hat, asking like a grandpa what the button with the two crossed hammers meant. I told him it was from a Pink Floyd album to which he asked, “Oh, and are they a pop group or…?” I almost laughed a bit, because I am so often teased for having such an old taste in music, I would never have guessed that someone much older than me would not know them. I told him no, they were an old, classic rock band. He asked what songs they were known for and I rattled off a few, saying that generally they are most known for their album Dark Side of the Moon. He had no idea what I was talking about.  He then told me, “Oh okay, I was just wondering ‘cuz I thought it looked like some sort of Goth symbol and I noticed the dark eyes” drawing his finger across his own eyelid, “And I thought, ‘we might have an apprentice Goth here or something.’” Now that I did laugh at and told him no, definitely not. Not entirely sure what he meant by “apprentice Goth” but my guess is that I looked Gothic, but not enough to be Gothic. Granted, I had my coat buttoned so he wouldn’t have been able to see my more Rock style apart from my hat which he obviously was unable to translate. His curiosity was very sweet though and I wondered what he would have said if I had turned out to actually be what he called an “apprentice Goth.”
Back on the bus, we were then taken to a place called Castle Howard which is a vast estate that is still lived in and owned by the wealthy family who has had claim to it for generations. Visitors are allowed to wander around the grounds and through the house, however. It was also the filming location for the film “Brideshead Revisited” which was based off a novel by Evelyn Waugh (I just recently read one of his other novels called “Scoop” for one of my classes). The family earned my respect when, upon entering the library, there was a secret door that stood ajar that was disguised by a bookshelf. Additionally, in the same room, various facings of the pillars would open up to reveal secret storage compartments for Brandy and Whiskey.
Being filthy stinking rich: you’re doing it right.
You can’t have that much money and not have at least one secret door.
The place was beautiful and we walked outside for a while too. When the rain started pelting us, Peipei decided to go wait in the café but Hannah and I wanted to brave the rain and see if we could get to one of the distant monuments that are on the property. Unfortunately, that one did not have public access but we did decide to walk along the path which skirts the woods to another monument which was possible to get to. The rain stopped very shortly after Peipei left so we were able to comfortably get pictures of the property without getting too soaked. The daffodils especially were amazing, creating a thick yellow carpet along the hill. They are all in bloom right now and they are everywhere, I actually think they grow wild here and are possibly a native British flower. Regardless, it is not uncommon to see people walking around with daffodil pins fastened to their lapels. When it was time to go, we met Peipei at the café and they made the walk back down the very long and slightly muddy driveway to where the bus was parked.
From there, we started to make our way along the main road, however, our bus driver turned around when he saw that the evening traffic was at a standstill. We instead then drove through the country back roads and villages to York. Before coming here, I had heard a rumor that in some of the more rural villages, the old red phone boxes have been converted into mini libraries; stacked with books that are free to take so long as you leave another book in its place. I wasn’t sure if this was really a thing, you can’t always trust the internet. However, when passing through one of the towns, I made a point to look into one of the phone boxes and sure enough, at least one wall of it was stacked with books. Seriously, why am I not English? Think I was born in the wrong country…

Today, we finished up Hamlet in my Shakespeare class, rather sadly because I would love nothing more than to just keep on studying Hamlet forever. I went to the store and then spent most of the afternoon working on my Hamlet essay and bumming around online. Mom and Haley are coming this Saturday so I am enjoying a bit of downtime before they get here as when they do I will be keeping them on the run for the entirety of their stay.

Friday, March 21, 2014

London: day seventy-one, seventy-two, seventy-three, and seventy-four

Tuesday:
One of those reminders that you are indeed in a foreign country: your professor has no clue what a moose looks like.
Yep that happened.
It was the professor for my City University class who had a picture on her Powerpoint slide of a moose standing in a swimming pool to cool itself off to represent homeostasis, but when she tried to explain it, she stumbled, “…so as you see, that’s what this, uh…elk, of some sort, is doing…” She looked at it sideways for a second, “um, yeah.”
Earlier in the day we received the grade for our British Youth Culture projects and we did very well. The best thing about it though was that our professor, when discussing it with us said that our paper was one of the most well written papers that he received. “Seriously, this introduction was one of the best I have read. When I was going through these I was flipping through just kind of going, ‘yeah…yeah...yeah…’ but when I got to this one it was like, ‘Oh! I am actually interested in reading this one.’ It made me want to sit back with a cup of tea and just read.” – So, especially since I basically wrote that whole paper (our group all contributed the actual factual information, I was just the one who reworked the thing until it was readable and fit our argument), and since he himself is an author; that was quite the compliment. I could have done better with it however, I know I could have, but being the night before it was due, and trying to rework the entire thing, I really only had time for one round of editing. If I’d had time to go through it again, I probably could have cleared it up more and made our points more clear so that we wouldn’t have been docked the points we were; but honestly, B+/A- is pretty well good enough.

Wednesday:
After class, Alyssa and I again made a trip to the British Museum and got to see a good portion of the first floor which included artifacts from Mesopotamia, Greece, more from Egypt and the Rosetta Stone, itself. We’ve been making some good progress in the museum, it feels good to finally be getting through some of these gargantuan museums – it’s rather overwhelming and is quite the process to actually see every exhibit in the major London museums as none of them are doable in a day – at least, not comfortably.
That night I worked on my music blog (if you haven’t checked it out yet, please do!) after finally finding and watching online the Metallica movie “Through the Never.” It definitely would have been much better on a big screen, but even on my computer, it was worth watching. The good majority of it featured concert footage of the band, but it was not boring as the film did very, very well showing the spectacle and inner workings of their absolutely stunning stage performance. The storyline knit throughout was also interesting. I rather expected more of it, but it worked well the way it was, I felt. I would consider this to be up near the top of my list of quality rock movies. Definitely worth the watch.

Thursday:
After class (received my essay back for that class as well and had a solid A), I headed back to NIDO and met up with Alyssa again. This time, we made our way to the Victoria and Albert Museum and wandered around there for quite some time – for me, two floors down, three more to go… We got to see some really interesting things, particularly in the Theater and Entertainment section which housed various props and costumes from stage productions, concert and theater posters, a small section dedicated to Shakespeare, a broken guitar that once belonged to Pete Townsend, and the “Joey” prop used in the production of War Horse which is currently being shown in the theater (same production company that put on A Midsummer Night’s Dream – so a very similar style of prop).
After the museum, we decided that we wanted Bubble Tea, so we made our way to the shop we had previously gone to with Abi and Hannah. It was a long bus ride from where we were, but worth it as we were also able to get some good food there.
That night I decided to watch the Kenneth Brannagh film interpretation of Hamlet so as to get myself into the spirit to write my essay for Shakespeare class, which I spent most of today doing…

Today:

Basically, I did just work on my essay for most of the day and bummed around a bit. As much as I want to go off on a tangent here and talk about just how much I love Hamlet and how it continually amazes me the more I study it, I am going to refrain as it would turn a blog post into a novel. I will, however, post my essay here when I do finish it – that, I hope, will give some idea as to just how incredible this work is and why I love it so much. I did homework today because I needed to get done as much as I could since tomorrow I will be heading to York with the IES group for an overnight trip. I am excited and curious, though I do not know what to expect. I do know that this is the farthest North in England that I will get because I was not able to go on the Scotland trip. Update you later…

Monday, March 17, 2014

London: day sixty-nine and seventy

Dover was a lot of fun yesterday; the past few days have been so active that it already seems as though it were days ago. We left early and made it to Dover by about 10. One minute we were cruising through the green countryside and the next we burst through a gap in a hillside and the land dropped away as the road swung out over the beach and curved back at the foot of the white cliffs which towered overhead. The bus let us off in the town center and we started our day with a steep hike up to Dover Castle.
At first, we balked at the admission price but when we were told that various guided tours were included, tunnels, and the castle were included on the 88 acre plot of land, all free to explore at will, we decided it was too much to just pass up. We first explored the tunnels underneath the castle which had been used extensively during WWII. With the Defeat at Dunkirk, Dover had become the new frontline as the Battle for Britain had begun. From the Lookout Tower on the edge of the cliff, on a sunny day like it was, you could even see the shore of France just barely a shadow on the horizon but most definitely visible. We walked all around the castle and climbed up to the top of the Great Tower for a beautiful view of the ocean and the sleepy little town of Dover. Emerald hills dotted with sheep suddenly broke off into pure white cliffs which plunged into the sea for miles along the coast to both sides. It was quite difficult to get decent pictures of the cliffs themselves simply for the fact that we were on top of them most of the time, but the white stone and snow white chalk littered the ground. After we had spent several hours at the castle, we walked down the hill into Dover itself and found a place to get a snack and something to drink while we killed time before our bus arrived. I ordered some chips which we all split and out of curiosity bought a cocktail called “Kill Me Now” which was a mixture of whiskey, gin, rum, vodka and amaretto. It was not a big drink, but when the waitress set it down she told me “good luck.” It was strong, that’s for sure, but still wasn’t enough to do anything for me – even though, two definitely would have gotten me feeling something I’m sure, but I wasn’t going to do that while we were out on an excursion. After, we wandered toward the beach and watched the colors in the sky change as the sun set. The pinks, purples and blues were incredible and with the white cliffs to the side, it was stunning, especially as the orange moon rose up from the horizon. When we had gotten our fill of pictures, we then found a pub to hang out in until our bus arrived and ordered some cider, nachos and chicken wings to split (tried a Toffee Apple cider by the brand Brothers and it was like dessert in a bottle – seriously tasted like caramel apples). Upon reaching NIDO, it did not take long before I flopped down on my bed and crashed.

Today for Shakespeare we met at the London Tube Station and then walked briefly through the area near Borough Market, passing by the remains of the Winchester Palace, the Clink, the replica of Francis Drake’s ship the “Golden Hinde,” the Rose Theater, and the original site of the Globe Theater. We then made our way to the Globe where we were led on a tour of its interior. Even though this was not the exact stage which saw the original performances (the first having burned down during a performance of Henry VIII), the awe still remained. Our guide had a rather easy day of it due to the fact that we were all studying/had studied Shakespeare and were not only familiar with the works but the history, also, because we had a very small group, we were able to go to all three levels which is usually not done. After we had toured the Globe and gone through the museum, I had some time to kill before meeting up with Alyssa at four so I found a spot on the river wall along the Southbank and seated myself down to eat the sandwich I had brought for lunch. The weather was nice so I pulled out the notebook I carry around with me for any writing ideas I may have when I don’t have a computer handy and opened it to a blank page. Unfortunately I didn’t have my drawing pencils, but I did sketch out a rough outline of St. Paul’s and was going over it in pen. Whilst absorbed in my work, I was suddenly startled when a guy suddenly plopped down right near me and cheerfully said hello. I looked up to see four or five guys standing near. The one nearest asked me with a heavy French accent what I was drawing and I gestured to the Cathedral across the river. He asked me if I was English and I told him no, that I was American and studying here for a semester. We did not talk a lot, but I did learn that they were French and were visiting London for a week, the first one seemed rather cheerful and said that they were talking to as many people as they came across. The conversation kind of faded but they didn’t move away, just chatted amongst themselves in French while I continued to draw. Occasionally they asked me the occasional question, generally wondering what the English word for something was or how to phrase something. The first guy seemed particularly interested in what I was working on and talked to me the most, he also complimented my drawing and said it was beautiful. Eventually they moved on and I continued to draw in relative peace save for the throngs of school children running all around. When I met up with Alyssa, we went over to the British Museum for a good hour and then headed over to a pub that she had heard about and had been wanting to try. To celebrate St. Patrick’s Day we just had a drink and just sat there talking for a while and enjoying the atmosphere of the cozy pub. Lately her and I have gotten to know each other a lot better and have gotten quite a bit closer. You know, I said before in one of my earlier posts that one of the best things about being here was quite simply that “no one cares,” and I sort of meant that in a way that even though I love the hell out of everyone at home, I desperately needed a break from myself and who I was when I was home. I needed something new, I needed out, I needed a change of scenery with absolutely no ties to home. Well. Unfortunately, you can’t run from yourself, and even when you are in one of the most incredible cities on the planet having the time of your life, the person you are doesn’t change – good or bad. So, when that happens, it’s a welcome surprise to find someone who does care. It is going to be sad at the end of this when we all have to go our separate ways again, but one of the best souvenirs I am going to take home with me at the end of this trip are some lasting friendships.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

London: day sixty-seven and sixty-eight

I apologize for not having kept up on my blog here. The past few days have found me hitting a wall of exhaustion and last night I crashed for a good ten hours, which is twice what I get on a normal night.
Yesterday, in an attempt to make up for my errors the previous day which caused me to miss class, I went to the National Portrait Gallery in the morning – I had been so lost, apparently, I had not even gone to the right meeting place near the Pret A Manger because as luck would have it, there are not only two, but three just in the proximity around Trafalgar Square! Anyway, Hannah came with and we wandered around the gallery. I snapped a few pictures of interesting portraits that I could potentially use for the assignment my professor had given the class. Thankfully, my professor had been forgiving and had told IES that my absence had been accounted for so everything was okay, all I had to do was the assignment. She also made a point of mentioning that my midterm essay was “very, very good” and promised to hand them back next class – this is good for me because I wrote that paper the night before it was due and was up until 4am doing so. It was practically a rough draft. But hey, what’s good for the professor is good for me, so that means I have done extremely well on all of my midterms for my English classes, now just to get back my Psych test and the grade for my British Youth Culture project. The later I’m sure will be fine, the first, ehhh, not so much – oh well. Anyway, at the National Portrait Gallery, there were portraits of all the royals, naturally, but I also found some really great ones of the Bronte sisters, Jane Austen, Robert Lewis Stevenson, Shakespeare, Elizabeth Barrett Browning and her husband Robert Browning; funny, I just realized when listing those that all the ones I took pictures of were only authors… haha, guess you can tell what I am drawn to. Honestly though there were many other portraits; royalty, scientists, politicians, activists, and so on and on.
Afterward, we took the Tube immediately over to Tower Bridge where we paid to go up to the very top. The elevator took us all the way to the top and we first entered a room at the top of the Main Tower (closer to the Northbank) where we watched a video that introduced the Bridge’s designer and architect. We then walked across the walkway that spans the two Towers. Sometimes difficult to see, but there are actually two walkways parallel to one another. From the eastern walkway we looked out toward Greenwich. Buildings sprawled for miles and the Thames glittered in the sun. In the Main Tower closer to the Southbank, we watched another short video which showed the construction of the bridge before walking back across the walkway, this time on the west side. Back this way, one could see more of the London landmarks; Tower of London, the Shard, the Gherkin, etc. We then took the stairs down the South Tower and walked on the main part of the bridge to the engine room which is underneath on the South shore. We toured around here and got to see how the engines that raise the middle of the bridge work – just don’t ask me to go into the specifics, I couldn’t recall it if I tried. But afterward we perused the gift shop for a bit and I picked up a few souvenirs for people back home.
Hannah and I then decided to just walk to the Monument rather than taking the bus because it wasn’t all that far and we wanted to stop for lunch on the way. We ended up just stopping at one of the Pret A Mangers and sat in the window watching a group of wealthy businessmen and women having some sort of (probably) company lunch outside in the sunshine. We wondered a bit what it would be like to live that sort of life, or at least to have a career like that, and we wished we could sit like a fly on the wall to one of their conversations. For me, they rather looked like an entirely different species. Personally, I don’t think I could live that kind of life, I don’t think I would want to. But they were entertaining, and after lunch Hannah and I continued on to Monument.
The Monument is a tall pillar set on the location where the Great Fire of London in 1666 began. If you want more info on the Fire itself, Wikipedia has a pretty good summary: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Fire_of_London. But anyway, they do allow people to climb all the way up to the top via the narrow spiral staircase inside. On the way up there was a large group of guys coming down who seemed rather intoxicated, not only because at least one of them had a hat on that was shaped like a beer mug but they were all sing-shouting; “DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN! DOWN!” as they made their descent and were all smiles. A bit winded, Hannah and I eventually defeated the climb and had a wonderful view from the top. While, naturally, the view wasn’t as spectacular as that from St. Paul’s, we did get some really beautiful pictures of the London skyline, much of which was silhouetted in the distance due to a sort of faint, dusty fog that had settled amidst the buildings and hadn’t been burnt off by the sun. All around the narrow top observation deck there is a sort of mesh fence that creates a sort of bubble all around it to prevent unfortunate accidents, the interesting thing though is that the railing and the mesh have a sort of wavy design to them, so that in a few places, the railing leans out slightly almost over the side of the platform so that those who dare can lean out with it and look straight down. Leaning out like that puts one in a position beyond vertical so that if it were not for the rail, falling would be certain. But the view was really cool, and the little adrenaline surge it causes is enough to make one’s heart pick up the pace a bit. Pretty sure Hannah thought I was nuts, but I was having fun and was loving the view.
After Monument we walked over to the Bank of England to see if we could go into the museum portion of it. Unfortunately it was closed for maintenance reasons but we did go into the Royal Exchange and look around a bit. Hannah had her guidebook with her so we looked at that a bit to see what was available to us and eventually decided to go check out St. Brides Church. We walked all the way from the Bank of England over to Fleet Street and found the church. The place was deserted when we walked in save for an old man sitting at the welcoming desk reading who barely looked at us when we came in. We wandered around a bit and Hannah was desperately trying to stifle her hiccups which were echoing in the dead silence. We looked around, all the while trying to be as quiet as possible but failing miserably as my shoes kept squeaking on the stone floor and Hannah’s loud hiccups were causing me to laugh.
After wandering throughout the beautiful church, we went over to a nearby pub called the Ye Ol’ Cheshire Cheese which is one of the oldest pubs in London and ordered a drink. I asked the bartender what his favorite beer on tap was and he served me one that was dark and extra stout…and tasted horrible. It was absolutely dreadful and Hannah can vouch because she took a sip of it too and was equally disgusted. But I downed the whole pint even though I considered several times sneaking into the restroom and pouring it down the sink. But God, I would take straight whiskey over that any day. REALLY not a beer person… The pub itself was really cool though, it had both an upstairs and a basement with a bar in each section and was beautifully decorated, had a wood fire burning, and was incredibly cozy. I wouldn’t mind going back, but would certainly order something different next time.
We then went back to NIDO for about 45 minutes to make dinner and then meet up with Alyssa so that we could go to a walking tour that was all about Jack the Ripper. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find my phone and ended up being a few minutes late, that, plus the fact that there were no Circle Line trains coming around. Because they were taking too long, we had to get on another line which ended at the stop just before where we needed to get off. So we literally sprinted from Aldgate to Tower Hill and just barely got there in time to make the tour. But we made it. The tour was really interesting and informative. I know more about Jack the Ripper now than I did before, but of course, the case is still a mystery today and there are many discrepancies so no one knows who he actually was. It wasn’t scary or anything, just interesting. I admit though that it was hard for me to pay attention because by this time I felt as though I had multiple blisters on my feet. My feet had been tired before by the time we went to the pub, but now, after running and then walking for another two hours, they were screaming. So I shuffled along and after the tour was over I was relieved to be able to sit down at a pub we stopped at near Liverpool Station. Alyssa and Hannah ordered desert while I nursed my feet. The pub itself was actually quite beautiful though, high ceilings, brightly lit and decorated more like a Victorian ballroom than a pub. Being a Friday night, it was also incredibly busy. While Alyssa and Hannah were ordering I couldn’t help notice the people next to us, one guy had brought back some drinks one of which was a shot of tequila with a lemon and he was trying to give it to the girl who kept refusing it and when she tried to pass it to the other guy at the table, he passed it right back. No one wanted it and I wondered if they would offer it to us because we were in close proximity. Just about then Alyssa and Hannah came back and I quit watching the people next to us and was listening to them two. But sure enough, not long after the guy who had originally brought the drinks leaned over and offered us the shot which Alyssa took. I just find it interesting what you can notice of people by just watching, sometimes even predicting their actions. It’s always been something I’ve inadvertently done, and like in this instance, it is often not as though I was going to tell them “Oh I bet you they give us their shot” or afterward say “Knew that was going to happen,” just because the instances are so small and not worth mentioning at the time. But it is useful and I really just like people watching because of it.

Finally, after a long and exhausting day, I got back to NIDO and was finally able to get my shoes off. Thankfully, no blisters, but they were definitely sore as all hell. The sleep deprivation has also been catching up with me so it did not take long before I practically passed out and finally had a long, full night of sleep – didn’t even hear my roommate when she came in. Today I just bummed around and watched a lot of TV, didn’t want to be on my feet too much as tomorrow we will be making our way to Dover.

Thursday, March 13, 2014

London: day sixty-six

Well, today I was supposed to meet my class at the National Portrait Gallery – not the “supposed to.” Here’s the story: my professor told us to meet her at Trafalgar Square next to the War Memorial in front of the Pret a Manger (sort of deli food chain here). So, on time, I showed up in the Square after having finally found the right Tube to get on, but what do you know? There’s two Pret a Mangers at Trafalgar Square. I walked back and forth between the two, looking for someone I recognized, but, finding absolutely no one, I became anxious and started second guessing myself, wondering I had heard the directions correctly. To be safe, I decided to go wait at the front entrance so that I would be able to see my group and professor when they came in. I waited for half an hour, anxiously examining every face and walking in and out of the gallery to be sure I had not missed them. Eventually I begun walking around the Square trying to find them still. After an hour, I was pretty certain that I had sufficiently missed my class and decided to take the bus back to NIDO. Apparently, I had been mistaken for quite some time, believing that the National Portrait Gallery was a wing of the National Gallery (the big, domed building at Trafalgar Square) when in reality it is a separate building that stands on a different side of the Square. I had been at the wrong entrance all along. Thankfully, my professor was forgiving and the issue was resolved (I will simply have to go tomorrow and completely a brief assignment there). However, it was a great source of anxiety for me throughout the day, and I am just glad now that it has been fixed.
Hannah and I were going to go to the Tower Bridge today because it was absolutely beautiful today. Early morning fog had burned off into clear blue skies and by noon it had reached nearly 60 degrees, so we figured it would be a perfect day. However, when we texted Alyssa to see if she wanted to go, she wondered if we could also go to Borough Market. Deciding to go there first, we wandered around the market, looking at the different foods and sitting in the courtyard of Southwark Cathedral for lunch. Ultimately, we spent too much time at the market and were not able to make it to Tower Bridge before it closed. However, we wandered the Southbank for a while and came across the site of the old Clink prison and the museum that stood there now. We decided to go check it out. Even though most everything was replicated and were not original artifacts, the tour was highly educational (in quite a rather morbid way). It is incredible, the cruelty of people. You would scarcely believe how horrible some of the deaths and torture devices were in this place (worse than the Tower of London), and it honestly made my stomach tighten up a bit, just reading about them. I do not care to explain them all here.
After the Clink, we walked down the riverbank toward the Tate Modern Art Museum and crossed over Millennium Bridge toward St. Paul’s. Whilst on the bridge, we got some absolutely stunning pictures of the sunset over the river. We stopped to watch the sun drop down to touch the tops of the buildings before moving on. As we begun to reach the other side of the bridge we came across a curious sight, a man lying on the ground of the bridge surrounded by paints and extraordinarily small brushes with which he was busy at work, face extremely close to the ground. He drew our attention to the ground we were walking on; the grated surface of the bridge had become collected with various clumps of dirt and gum that had wedged themselves into the grated surface – entirely normal and scarcely noticed. However, what this man was doing was painting the tiniest of pictured on those bits of trash stuck between the grating – making something beautiful out of something unnoticed and rather gross. We then noticed that the bridge was spotted everywhere with these miniature masterpieces.
We walked by St. Paul’s and took the Tube back to NIDO to drop off our stuff before going to a bar just around the corner from NIDO. Here, we took advantage of the two for one cocktails happy hour. It was rather funny, I downed four cocktails within the span of probably scarcely over half an hour and felt only the faintest buzz, but not until I stood up, sitting down I felt absolutely nothing. Alyssa on the other hand, determined to keep pace ended up completely drunk on the same exact amount. It was really rather funny having to guide her back to NIDO, especially when we came across a cat on our walk back. I am pretty certain that if we had not drug her away she would have been content to stay with that cat all night. It was quite a lot of fun, and I am desperately going to miss having girl’s nights at the pubs when I have to go back to Idaho; not only are there no pubs, but I also have no friends left in Idaho whom I see regularly enough to hang out and go out for a night with. I am afraid it may be a rather lonely summer.

I have also been working on my new blog quite a bit, trying to get a few posts done before I officially launch it. So far it is going well, so keep an eye out for it soon!

Wednesday, March 12, 2014

London: day sixty-four and sixty-five

Yesterday was fairly basic, just homework, grocery store, class and getting things done that I needed to.
Today was a bit more interesting. After class, Alyssa and I went to the British Museum where we wandered around the portion of the museum dedicated to Ancient Egypt. I got to see quite a few mummies and the caskets, tombs, dressings, beadwork and artifacts were incredible. We also wandered into a room that had a gigantic Michelangelo sketch (a full size rough draft for one of the cartoons he painted), as well as two Picasso linocuts. We had a little time to go through half of the Mesopotamia exhibit before we were shooed out by the museum staff who were closing it up for the night.
Out of the museum, Alyssa and I decided that we were craving pizza and ice cream, so we set off on the hunt for a Pizza Hut. The two of us took the Tube over to Oxford Circus and just decided to pick a random direction and wing it; see what we could stumble across. Eventually we came to a nice little pizza shop that was definitely nicer than Pizza Hut. As we stood outside examining the menu, a waitress who was standing just outside the door having a smoke, leaned over and said, “Hey! You have a Nirvana shirt too!” and pointed to her shirt which had the yellow dead smiley face logo on it, exactly like the one I got in Camden. I laughed and she chatted with us a bit and told us about a deal they had going on, so we decided to give it a try. The pizza was very good despite being thin-crust artisan pizza rather than the super cheesy American pizza we had originally been in search of. We each got a cocktail and a little bowl of gelato too (they messed up the gelato order so we ended up getting a third bowl which we split for free). Even though the place was a little more spendy than we had originally intended, it was definitely worth it and we left satisfied with both the food and the friendly staff. Ironically, when we reached our bus station, low and behold, there was a Pizza Hut right across the street which we would have come across if we had only walked one block further. But we were still satisfied anyway with our decision and our little excursion.

Over the past two days I have also immersed myself in the hunt for an internship that I would be interested in, hopefully one I can get college credit for this next semester or even start work on over the summer. I had a small revelation when I thought of a potential career path for myself that for some stupid reason I had never considered before; music journalism. I found several internships that involve music journalism and blogging, some of which can be done remotely so it is not necessary for me to go into “work” every week as I can do it all from my laptop (albeit, going to concerts and trying to get interviews). Some radio stations even promote various blogs. So I have begun a new blog, which I have spent the past two days setting up, separate from this one which is more centered on music news, opinion pieces, and also some of my own short stories which are inspired by rock songs (compiling them into a collection when I have enough – another recent idea of mine that I am very excited about). I have entitled it "Stairway to Nirvana" and will likely be asking people to promote it once I get it set up the way I like and get some posts completed to start it off. I hope to keep this going for a while, updating it regularly and gather an audience so that I can pitch it (kind of like a portfolio) to some of these radio stations to see if they will promote me and/or take me on as an intern journalist/blogger. I am quite excited to see if anything comes of this. I don’t know if it will, but I feel like if this did become a career path for me it would turn into something that I could pursue passionately.